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Ann Demeulemeester

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POSITIVE + NEGATIVE

Paris:  As each attendee filed into the S/S 10 Ann Demeulemeester show they were handed a flashlight with the inscription “Shine the Light”. The collection that followed was a fascinating experiment with light and shadow, shiny and matte, washed and rigid. An all-white, mostly cotton collection had the functional feel of fencing uniforms with a bit apocalyptic uncertainty in the form of high boots and straitjacket straps on jackets. Just when the audience thought the show was over, it began again. This time the white ensembles were replicated in all-black looks, with many pieces made from leather. The simple exercise brought complex questions to the surface: What emotions can a designer evoke by simply altering color or material? What is positive and what is negative? What is forward and what is familiar?

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