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Ann Demeulemeester

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BLACK MAGIC

Ann Demeulemeester found a balance between the forces of dark and light in a witchy collection of black, white, grey and silver for S/S 10. Zippers gave her signature punk-and-goth-influenced separates a harder edge, used for both function and decoration, as in the multiple draped strands of silvery zips ornamenting jackets. Torsos were bare except for black leather bandeaus and silver body chains. Tuxedo elements turned up as elongated blazers, leather cummerbunds (some widened to become mini-skirts or corsets) and slim trousers. Digital blow-ups of flowers or birds’ wings were printed onto asymmetrical motorcycle jackets, silky pants and a long skirt that fishtailed into a romantic train. Cotton tees and tanks were emblazoned with a crown-of-thorns photo-print that was echoed in delicate, yet dangerous-looking, chokers. Silver or black sequins were scattered on fluid tanks and vests, but in Demeulemeester’s hands the sparkle exuded mystery, not glitz.

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