Ann Demeulemeester
By Anna Glassman

A ROMANCE WITH BACKBONE Paris: Ann Demeulemeester has indulged in more and more romanticism over the past few seasons, finding softer silhouettes and even …

Feb 28, 2013
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A ROMANCE WITH BACKBONE
Paris: Ann Demeulemeester has indulged in more and more romanticism over the past few seasons, finding softer silhouettes and even a vintage-influenced femininity. For F/W 13 the looks were uniformly floor-grazing, and cotton or sheer chiffon nightshirt dresses were tempered with plenty of backbone via excellent slim cut military coats, lace-up combat boots and stiff, exaggerated leather corsets. Pants came tucked into boots and layered beneath robes and skirts for increased functionality, while even shimmering gossamer pieces gained a sense of authenticity paired with simple bowler hats stuck through with elongated versions of Demeulemeester’s signature feather pins.  High waist menswear trousers, an emerging key item for Fall, were voluminous and comfortable, their wrapped and buckled self belts echoed as leather cord bracelets throughout this fluid and soothing presentation.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Long & draped / Layered & flowing

Color: White / Black / Gunmetal

Key Items: Long-sleeved turtleneck dresses / Cropped military coats / Waistcoats with fringed sleeves / Slim trousers tucked into boots / Floor length shirtdresses / Full high-waist trousers / Leather corsets / Layered satin military coats

Materials: Canvas / Sheer chiffon / Felted wool / Metallic gossamer / Fur / Leather / Bonded satin

Print + Pattern: Ombré

Details + Trim: Stand collars / Fringe / Dropped waists / Pleating / Fur collars / Self belts / Simple buckles / Drawstrings

Accessories + Footwear: Round feather-embellished hats / Lace-up combat boots / Wrapped leather strap bracelets / Extra wide smooth leather corset belts / Knee-high riding boots / Long feather pins

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK


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