Ann Demeulemeester

HOLY WANDERERS Paris: Gothic goddess Ann Demeulemeester kept her trademark aesthetic in place for F/W 13, while exploring new ideas about layering and draping. …

Jan 18, 2013
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HOLY WANDERERS
Paris: Gothic goddess Ann Demeulemeester kept her trademark aesthetic in place for F/W 13, while exploring new ideas about layering and draping. Her men strode the runway swathed in romantic layers of wool felt outerwear, embroidered suits, and cotton dress shirts that evoked wandering preachers from some strange American West. Models wore bowlers trimmed with feathers and black mesh veils that recalled nothing so much as preachers and Sicilian widows. Trousers were narrow, mostly tucked into high jump boots and were only visible beneath extra-long sweaters, jackets and shirts. Her palette here was decidedly spare, featuring only black, white and semi-shiny graphite grey, a restraint that added a spare, forlorn feel to her pretty, pallid male models. —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Long and languid

Color: Jet black / Optic white / Graphite

Key Items: Double-breasted overcoat / Monk’s robe / Sleeveless jacket / High-button jacket / Extra-long overcoat / Suit with high-button jacket and cropped, extra-wide trousers / Hooded cape / Fur overcoat / Extra-long cardigan / Extra-long dress shirt

Materials: Fur / Felt / Tweed / Wool knit

Print + Pattern: Medallion over embroidery

Details + Trim: Mesh veils / Feathers / Overlong cuffs

Accessories + Footwear: Bowler hats / Jump boots in leather or suede / Silk scarves / Silk ribbon ties / Leather rings

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK


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