May 07, 2018 | By Lizzy Bowring
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21ST CENTURY GOTH
Paris: It seems the goth look will never go out of style, ensuring Ann Demeulemeester’s lasting relevance. Though she has been putting out drape-y black looks since the 80s, Demeulemeester’s shows can still offer an element of newness and surprise. For spring, in addition to all the obligatory black, there was a compelling grape hue. Satin pieces in the tone looked rich and luxurious. Silver and ivory also made an appearance, used for suiting separates and billowy charmeuse dresses. A large portion of the collection was devoted to gowns, many of which featured trailing panels of chiffon. Leather harnesses, another Demeulemeester signature, added a tough, solid counterpoint to the etherealness and fluidity. With the harnesses, the shiny silvers, and the models’ triangular sections of hair, there was a futuristic element at play. Demeulemeester’s formula has worked for three decades, so it’s likely that chic goths of the future will still be wearing her clothes. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long + languid / Hourglass / A-line / Layered / Abbreviated
Color: Black / Grape / Silver / Ivory
Key Items: Oversized blazers / Satin slim pants / Charmeuse gowns / Drape-y chiffon gowns
Materials: Fine-gauge jersey / Satin / Silk charmeuse / Chiffon / Fluid silks / Lightweight suitings / Leather
Details + Trim: Long chiffon panels / Extra-long sleeves / Sharp shoulders / Layering / Veiling / Slashed armholes
Accessories + Footwear: Extra-wide leather belts / Leather harnesses / Platform peep-toe boots
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