Ann Demeulemeester

Paris: Demeulemeester showed a hard-edged gypsy collection, highlighted by militaristic touches like Afghan pakul caps, clipped trousers and pantaloons, and cropped black jackets sporting blue and white reversed sleeves that might have been torn from an American Revolutionary drummer boy. The collection, which veered slightly from Demeulemeester’s characteristic dark palettes through shots of pumpkin shell orange, bone, and mocha, showed plenty of delicacy and softness underneath its structured shell. The designer sent sheer, khaki colored gossamer t-shirts and gowns set off by leather collars and sleeve rings down the runway, as well as a velvet vest in a hoary paisley pattern, while scarves and other items dripped hanging knit fringe. For Demeulemeester expanding notions of the fedora were important, as she sent models out topped with large Borsalino style hats. In this show Demeulemeester emphasized layering and flow, as she played with weight, texture, structure, and draping. —Andrew Luecke

Color: Pumpkin shell / Bone / Black / Mocha / Khaki

Key Items: Cropped, reverse sleeve jackets / White tuxedo jackets / Sheer t-shirts and gowns / Knee-length dress jackets / Clipped trousers and pantaloons

Materials: Sheer gossamer / Chunky mesh knits / Satin / Velvet / Wool suiting

Print + Pattern: Hoary paisley

Details + Trim: Fringe / Leather piping / Gold buttons

Accessories + Footwear: Plated gladiator sandals / Borsalino style fedoras / Rolled pakul caps / Combat boots / Hairnets / Black and white flower buttoneers

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