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Angles and Airwaves

Paris…Dior Homme

Kris Van Assche’s one-word theme for the season was “angles,” although it was also pretty obvious that New Wave had a heavy hand in the silhouettes and details. Huge, oversized t-shirts with graphic messages (hello, Frankie Goes to Hollywood) were layered upon slim, abridged jackets. The use of white and black focused attention on important items like voluminous, pleated pants (with folded down waistbands that had a cummerbund look), leather shirts, and crystal-studded sweaters. Light was an important factor for much of the show, and how it interacted with the various fabrics and trims. A salt and pepper tweed car coat lent a feeling of classicism to an otherwise very contemporary aesthetic. Even though Van Assche did ease up a bit on the huge volume of pants of seasons past (something for which he got a lot of flack), the distinct brand identity of a certain former designer is still yet to be seen.

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