May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: Andrew Gn looked to the Art Nouveau movement for inspiration for his opulent fall collection. The elegant yet clean lines of the style were an excellent compliment to the rich fabrics and luxe embellishments on display. Gn used several techniques to express the Art Nouveau patterns, including leather and velvet appliqués, contrast trim, cloqué designs, beading, and quilting. The designer’s collections always skew formal, but this one seemed to do so more than usual. Fur collars decorated coats and jackets, and lustrous duchesse satin was in heavy rotation. The show ended in a parade of mermaid-shaped lace and satin gowns. There were plenty of office-ready looks, but the cocktail and evening pieces seemed to have received the most attention. They’re sure to elicit swoons from his well-heeled clients. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: A-line / Boxy on top / Fit-and-flare / Hourglass / Tent / Mermaid / Rounded
Color: Warm brown / Black / Copper / Rust / Goldenrod / Burgundy / Cobalt / Magenta / Pumpkin / Olive / Ivory / Navy / Gold / Periwinkle / Blush
Key Items: Fur-collared coats / A-line skirts / Fit-and-flare dresses / Evening gowns
Materials: Duchesse satin / Taffeta / Leather / Velvet / CDC / Fluid silks / Matte wool / Fine-gauge yarns / Menswear suitings / Shaggy fur / Chiffon / Lace / Cloqué
Print + Pattern: Art Nouveau motifs / Prince of Wales check
Details + Trim: Contrast trim / Fur collars / Leather and velvet appliqués / Beading / Zip closures / Quilting / Kimono sleeves / Poet sleeves / Lace overlays / Funnel necks / Sheer trim / Peplums
Accessories + Footwear: Jeweled belts / Long or wrist-length leather gloves / Boxy tote bags / Top-handle frame bags / Sheer hosiery / Strappy platform sandals / Ankle-strap pumps
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