May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
Just as Paul Smith chooses to show his quintessential London collection in Paris each season, the theme of F/W 09/10 also seemed to be rendered by the importance of maintaining your aesthetic essence no matter where in the world it may take you. The invitation and runway backdrop was of a tearoom in Darjeeling, so it wasn’t a surprise when a bit of steamy, colorful India found its way into the collection in the form of bold madras and colorful fabrics. As always, Smith gave a majority of the show space to his exquisitely tailored suits, but this time they were sometimes underpinned with vibrant cycling shirts instead of the expected shirt and tie. Tartans were mixed with other tartans to prove a point of whimsy and bravery that only an Englishman could. Unexpected trims and details have become a trademark of the designer, like the floral jacket linings and brightly colored felt under blazer collars. Building upon a neutral color palette of grey mohair and beige windowpanes, there were also a lot of pastels on knits and footwear. A rich, Edwardian effect resulted in crushed velvet vests paired under subtle plaid suits. Whether staying put at home or traveling abroad to an exotic land, Paul Smith proves the point that globalism affects every segment of culture as we move further into the 21st Century.
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