May 14, 2018 | By Sidney Morgan-Petro
For the first time in years, New York-based John Varvatos took it on the road this season and showed his men’s collection in Milan. Devoid of almost any color, the clothes had Varvatos’ usual rock n’ roll edge, albeit a bit more Gothic-inspired this go around, which makes the show’s setting of an ancient Milanese church all the more appropriate. These rockers aimed to be a bit more polished than those in dive bars, wearing an array of dark pinstripe and flannel suits with shrunken fits and skinny pants. Varvatos’ trouser has definitely shrunken up from the past few seasons when he was a fan of the flare. The accessories were almost always silver and shiny, and the leather jackets were so washed they almost looked like liquid under the lights. Most of the fabrics, including the suitings, had a certain forced luster about them, perhaps the only misstep in the designer’s evolution for fall. Many of the knits were stretched out and bulky, but with an evening scarf, still as sexy as a rock star should be. Slim trench coats had a dropped waist due to the low-placed belt. It’s clear that Varvatos continues to seek out more than just the ideals of a New York musician, instead reaching for that certain “bad ass,” but buttoned-up aesthetic his European counterparts have known for some time.
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