Apr 25, 2017 | By Sandy Chu
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New York: Last season Joseph Altuzarra presented an ornamental collection, marrying metallic fringe with denim ticking and workwear to spectacular effect. In contrast the slate was wiped completely clean for F/W 13, the fringe and Greek-inspired prints gone in favor of flat oversized buttons and the strictest of tailoring. Double breasted power suits became sexy strapless dresses while white leather leggings had a medical precision layered beneath pencil skirts slit daringly up the thigh. References to the 80s power suit were clear, and Altuzarra favored other touchstones of the era as well, playing with skintight leotard tops and houndstooth pumps. After she was done with the boardroom, the designer’s muse took to the streets outfitted in motorcycle jackets layered atop trench coats, her straight leg trousers and stretchy turtlenecks complimented by ska-tinged accessories. Closing the presentation on graphic black and white furs and witchy, colorblocked corset dresses, Altuzarra conjured a sharp, witty vision of a modern-day Cruella de Vil.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Fitted nipped waists / Round shoulders / Body conscious / Sharp
Color: Charcoal / Black / Khaki / Safety orange / Evergreen / White
Key Items: Nipped waist jackets with round football shoulders / Double breasted coat dresses / Stretch leotards / Leather leggings / Sharp-shouldered blazers / Pencil skirts / Motorcycle jackets / Straight-leg trousers / Stretch jersey dresses / Stand collar turtlenecks / Chunky furs
Materials: Leather / Stretch wool / Fine gauge jersey / Long-haired fur / Sheer chiffon / Viscose / Polyester
Print + Pattern: Houndstooth / Black and white colorblocking
Details + Trim: Balloon sleeves / Oversized buttons / Slits / Buckles & straps / Studs / Snaps / Stand collars / Fur collars / Zippers
Accessories + Footwear: Architectural buckled booties / Houndstooth pumps / Grommet embellished utility belts / Oversized fur gloves
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