New York: Joseph Altuzarra may be the most buzzed about up-and-coming designer in New York this season, and scores of hip young things flocked to his show at Milk Studios. The designer’s third collection was a powerful departure from the bohemian looks he presented for Spring. Overtly sexy, even to the point feeling a bit S&M, the looks were heavy on pieced leather and many were trimmed in swingy long-haired goat fur. Perhaps inspired by the Tim Burton retrospective at the MoMA, shades of Edward Scissorhands were seen in the multiple buckles and exposed crude stitches made from thick, wiry thread. One has to commend Altuzarra for going all out, but his most interesting looks were the most subdued. Ruched jersey dresses in cream were flattering, and black wool capes maintained an edge without feeling too goth. A passage of red velvet looks closed the show, in keeping with the mysterious mood. The best of the group was the least adorned – a slim-fitting suit with a satin collar. While Altuzarra’s looks may not be the most commercially viable, the designer proved that he has a distinct voice, and the fashion world is ready to listen.

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