Sep 13, 2019 | By WGSN Insider
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FILM NOIR VIXENS
Alexis Mabille was recently made an official member of the elite Haute Couture club, with only sixteen houses selected by the Fédération Française de la Couture. The show opened with separates in cosmetic tints — pleated organza tops trimmed with guipure lace, accompanied by silk cigarette pants — an item which seems to be on every couture runway since Raf Simons’ Dior debut. A parade of mid-thigh flouncy styles followed, until a white tuxedo jacket styled with a layered ball gown skirt swept the runway. Alexis must have had his muse Dita Von Teese and film noir vixens in mind when creating a group of mermaid-shaped off-the-shoulder shoulder gowns that shimmered down the runway. But it was the full-length double-breasted tuxedo dress with an up-to-there slit that really stole the spotlight. A group of gowns followed in powdery soft blush, nude and vintage pearl grey. There were many body-hugging gowns that seemed red-carpet ready, and the flamenco-inspired flouncy silk skirts were stunning, but many pieces were marred by a profusion of bows, appliqués and draperies. The best looks were the simplest. — Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Hourglass / Strapless / Flounces / Mermaid
Color: Blush / Nude / Poppy / Iris / Peach / Lipstick red / Violet / Black / White
Key Items: Tuxedo Coatdress / Full ball skirt / Strapless cocktail dresses / Mermaid-shaped floor-length dresses / Pleated top / Cigarette Pants
Materials: Silk Taffeta / Tulle / Guipure lace / Silk chiffon / Organza / Satin-back crepe / Chantilly lace
Print + Pattern: Flower motifs / Decorative lace / Dot design lace & tulle / Ombré-dyed / Subtle color contrasting
Details + Trim: Lace appliqués and inserts / Flower embroideries and appliqués / Colored beads and sequins / Tulle and lace overlays / Bows / Boning / Accordion pleats
Accessories + Footwear: Skin color belts with sparkly buckles / Belts placed at waist or higher / Silk belts with attached bow on the side / Black and nude strappy platform sandals
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