Alexandre Plokhov

New York:
Alexandre Plokhov likes to play with gender and identity, famously combining a love for men in skirts with overtly masculine elements. This collection follows that model, but where the designer’s S/S 12 collection delivered a dose of trim, military tailoring this collection goes another route offering long, languid silhouettes that somehow manage to feel slim and loose at the same time. Here the masculinity comes from a futuristic Japanese feel produced by kimono-like suit coats and sleeveless vests paired with skirts and models sporting long, swept-back ponytails, all of which approximates a mix of Samurai, Yakuza, and club kid.  —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Lean but loose

Color: Jet black / Granite

Key Items: Turtlenecks / Men’s skirts in leather or knits / Asymmetrical boat neck knit tops / Sleeveless vests / Colorless jackets

Materials: Leather / Wool felt

Print + Pattern: Coogi-style intarsia

Details + Trim: Roped shoulders / Wide lapels that five way to collarless jackets / Dramatic button stances

Accessories + Footwear: Leather gloves and fingerless gauntlets / Naturalistic silver cuffs and charm necklaces / Minimalist leather boots


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