May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: Alexander Wang, all eyes on him with his new prestige position at Balenciaga, showed a more “grown up” collection. “I was inspired by the 20s and 30s well-dressed woman, the dropped waist, the drapes. Then I added an element of comfort and sportswear,” said Wang backstage. The vintage influence was evident in the dropped waist of double-breasted boiled wool jackets, styled with skirts below the knee. There was a feeling of protection and cocooning with boiled wool jackets, raglan or dropped shoulders, oversized proportions and lots of fur. Black fur mittens covered high above the elbow, and there were even fur skirts. Wang showed some real craftsmanship with drapes, pleats and clever cutouts. Dresses with big cowl necks were beautifully draped in front, with revealing slits and low-slung hips, and a draped overlapping waist gave pants an updated 30s look. The Wang trademark, technical fabrics and sports influences, was evidenced in the materials — the collection sparkled. Laminated jersey had iridescent sheen, jacquards were matte/shiny and the burnout had metallic luster. Heavy knits, laminated with silver or black metallic, revealed deep V-backs — a surprisingly glamorous touch for Wang. Shoulders were a focal point, with cutouts, wide shawl collars, raglan cuts and boleros. The show ended with long lean looks in heavy silk satin — wrap skirts styled over trousers — adding evening drama to the Wang urban elegance. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Draped / Cocooning / Cylinder / Dropped waist / Lean
Color: Greyed-out navy / Dark brown / Soft grey mid to dark / Cognac / Black / Ivory
Key Items: The double-breasted low-waisted wool coats / MC jacket with cross-belt detail / Color-blocked side zipped coat and jacket / The hooded leather jacket and coat bonded with mohair / Wrap-waist detail pants / Open back heavy knit sweaters
Materials: Leather/ Silk satin/ Boiled or felted wool / Satin back crepe / Fur / Burnouts / Wool jacquards/ Hand knit wool / Wool knit merino
Print + Pattern: Burnout space effect / Metallic camouflage-inspired jacquards
Details + Trim: Subtle color or material blocking / Heavy silver metallic zips / Fur parts / Fabric covered buttons / Concealed fastenings
Accessories + Footwear: Knitted toeless shoe covers / Sharp loafers in metallic leather / Fur mittens / Big clutches with handle
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