Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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THE ICE PRINCESS
Paris: Although Alexander McQueen’s publicists have denied the latest reports that Sarah Burton is designing Kate Middleton’s wedding gown, the bridal-perfect fall collection seemed to indicate otherwise. Burton even had her own royal muse in mind: the Ice Queen. While the designer seemed to favor the more tragic side of the fairytale (the show was staged at La Conciergerie, Marie Antoinette’s prison), the winter-white ensembles, undulating swirls of frothy tulle and couture-level work was all dreamy decadence. As with many McQueen collections, eveningwear was a standout; however, Burton’s daywear was a bit more problematic. Zippered pleats on pencil skirts read like a fashion school gimmick, leather harnesses (although a McQueen trademark) and leggings looked out-of-date, and the mix of tweed work suits with flamboyant fur trims was a bit jarring and not exactly appropriate for day or evening. Those attempts were only a springboard, however, for the show-stopping gowns, and there Burton channeled McQueen’s legacy in exquisite fashion.
Color: Dove grey / Lilac / Antique white
Key Items: Chanel suit / Wear-to-work sheath / Leather leggings
Print + Pattern: China patterns
Materials: Tweed / Fur / Ponyhair and leather basket weave / Organza / Matelassé
Details + Trim: Diamond pleating / Raw-edged chiffon strips / Zippers / Metal buttons / Pearls
Accessories + Footwear: Corset boots / Body harness / Driving gloves
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