May 14, 2018 | By Sidney Morgan-Petro
Milan: Creative director Sarah Burton continues to hone in on what the late Alexander McQueen stood for — collections with a rebellious attitude and slightly dark undertones. For S/S 12, she looked to the heyday of “English rock” as inspiration — when Mick Jagger performed for a crowd of 250,000 fans in London’s Hyde Park, and when Jimi Hendrix walked along the city’s famed Carnaby Street. The McQueen man is larger-than-life, going for bold and clashing patterns that would make Savile Row shudder. But he also has an elegant side, with well-tailored suits in subdued shades and silky, flowing accessories. To a soundtrack of Hendrix’s “Voodoo Child,” attendees were instantly transported to the Swingin’ 60s with long-haired models, hyper-embellished jackets, silky blousons, chunky awning stripes and dandyish scarves. Burton should be applauded for striking a balance between understandable notions of a man’s wardrobe and the sovereign voice that is McQueen’s legacy. —Michael Fisher
Color: Flame red / Black / Ivory / Yellow / Mauve
Key Items: Trench coat / Band collar shirt / Relaxed pajama pants / Tapestry jackets / Boat neck sweaters / Blousons / Three-piece suits / Double-breasted jackets
Materials: Velvet / Lurex / Silk / Tropical wool / Cotton poplin / Jacquards
Details + Trim: Feathers / Deep v-necks on sweaters / Sequins / Floral pattern on jackets and pants / Braided zipper pulls
Accessories + Footwear: Tasseled loafers / Chelsea boots / Satin pocket squares / Pocket watch chains / Tapestry belts
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