Jan 30, 2019 | By Brian Trunzo
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London: Refined nautical references with an off-kilter edge were all on show at Alexander McQueen – the tale of a Victorian sailor at sea but with a very modern twist. Sharp tailoring with contemporary silhouettes stole the show – a double-breasted captain’s coat sat just below the knee, cinched at the waist, as were the slim-fitting dinner jackets. The sharpness eventually softened into a freer, lounge-like way of dressing; pyjama-style shirts, dressing gown jackets and tapered trousers were executed in soft fabrics and some were printed with a blue, chintz-like pattern. Detailing was clever – subtly frayed piping and decorative denim repair offered a nod to uniforms that had been weathered at sea, whilst oversized metal eyelets were taken from a ship’s sail to decorate a peacoat. The more obvious nautical references came through in print and pattern placed on asymmetric knitted sweaters and suits, whilst anchor, mermaid and compass imagery were composed as either all-over repeats or as placements across the chest and legs, echoing sailor tattoos. – Laura Yiannakou
Theme: Modern Nautical
Key Items: Double-breasted tailored coat, Double-breasted blazer, Asymmetric fitted sweater, Peacoat, Dressing gown coat, Bomber jacket, Pyjama shirt, Ankle-skimming tailored trouser
Colour: Off-white, Black, Chintz blue, Navy blue, A hint of aqua and orange
Materials and trim: Wool suiting, Medium gauge knitwear, Denim, Metal eyelets
Print and pattern: Nautical pyjama-inspired repeat, Bright-coloured sea monsters repeat, Samurai wrestlers repeat, Tattoo-like placements, Asymmetric dazzle camouflage, Embroidered nautical imagery, Decorative denim repair
Accessories and footwear: Minimalist brogues, Printed neckerchiefs
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