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Alexander McQueen

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NEW BEGINNING

Paris: Although every designer deals with enormous pressure during runway season, Sarah Burton arguably faced the most this time, designing her first major collection for the Alexander McQueen label since its creator and namesake passed away in February. Having worked by McQueen’s side for 15 years, Burton was the natural choice to take over the role of designer, and this season’s brilliant collection showed just how much she must have been involved in the creative process all along. While perhaps not as elaborate or theatrical as McQueen shows past, the looks captured his kind of unsettling beauty with extreme silhouettes, over-the-top embellishments and dramatic hair and makeup, but the theme had a softer, decidedly more feminine feel. Nature and harvest inspired the poetic looks, with corn silk fringe, leather leaves, basket woven hair and monarch butterfly wings fashioned from feathers. Wearable pieces were also present; the first look – a white pantsuit with a tailed cutaway jacket – was soft yet structured and easy to imagine on a real woman, and fluttery long skirts and peasant dresses had uncomplicated shapes but stood out with digital nature prints. As far as first collections go, Burton’s could not have been better. One looks forward to her feminine take on the signature McQueen drama in seasons to come.

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