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Alexander McQueen

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LOOKING BACKWARD

Milan:  As the first collection designed by new creative director, Sarah Burton, the house chose to forgo a runway show in favor of an intimate presentation. Burton did what McQueen often did best; she drew upon historical references as the season’s inspiration, this time deconstructing the various modes of English gentlemen. With a collection entitled “Pomp and Circumstance”, representations of the British military, aristocracy, workwear and Savile Row were all present. Elements like suppressed waists and high collars, cutaway jackets and morning suit striped pants were styled with a wearable, offhand ease. In a nod to the late namesake designer’s signature theatricality, Burton even included a gold brocade coat. The interplay between aristocratic luxe and working-class tough struck the right note — and even more important than the actual clothes, the collection signaled a new day for the legendary design house.

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