Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: Sarah Burton scaled back her F/W 13 presentation for Alexander McQueen to only ten ensembles, but never has the gifted designer done so much with so little room to maneuver. Unrelentingly ornate, the collection was full-scale Queen Elizabeth grandeur with a bit of papal pomp-and-circumstance thrown in for good measure. Burton’s communion gowns came trimmed in ostrich feathers or given volume with poufed organdy lace sleeves of virginal white, while the rich robes of Catholic cardinals were remade as swinging pleated trains embellished with latticework pearls, their ceremonial rings rendered as finger gloves trimmed in crystals. Renaissance folds and Elizabethan ruffle collars were appropriately dramatic, as were theatrical caged hoods (perhaps a comment on the recent travails of the Church) each detail making for a couture-level collection, even by Alexander McQueen ready-to-wear standards.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Voluminous / Off-the-shoulder / Hourglass / Harness
Color: White / Gold / Silver / Black
Key Items: Organdy lace gowns / Pearl encrusted corsets / Pleated capes & trains / Chiffon trains / Ostrich coats / Gold beaded corset gowns / Lace shifts with trains
Materials: Organdy lace / Ostrich / Organza / Silk / Velvet / Satin / Sheer mesh / Chiffon
Print + Pattern: Floral motifs / Dots / Lattice patterns
Details + Trim: Tiered ruffles / Pearl embroidery / Pouf sleeves / Wide folds / Wide pleats / Folded peplums / Beading / Trains
Accessories + Footwear: Metal corset belts with lattice work / Cage headdresses / Tall boots with pearls and crystals / Pearl mesh hosiery / Finger gloves with crystals / Ruffled collars / Ostrich feather sandals
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