May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: Religious devotion and innocence were among Sarah Burton’s influences for her Pre-Fall collection for Alexander McQueen. Specifically, the designer looked to the humility of the Amish for inspiration. Images of Catholic priests, Orthodox clergy, Audrey Hepburn in The Nun’s Story, and Sophia Loren in White Sister also populated the designer’s mood board. The resulting offering consisted of Burton’s elegant takes on religious garb. Dramatic robes, capes, puff-sleeved shirts were some of the pieces on display. The limited palette of pure white, black, and papal red made her statement even stronger. Though the garments were not free of embellishment – metal studs decorated collars, flounces and lace panels appeared on necklines, and fur was used for collars and cuffs – there was less of an emphasis on adornment than there has been in many of Burton’s (and McQueen’s) other collections. But this new experiment in humility did nothing to diminish the McQueen drama, which Burton captures so well. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Dramatic A-line / Billowy / Flared / Asymmetrical / Long and lean / Tent
Color: Black / Pure white / Papal red / Dove grey
Key Items: Puff-sleeve tops / Flared pants / High-low hemline dress / Capes / Printed dresses
Materials: Haircalf / Crisp cotton / Matte wool / Firm silks / Velvet / Satin / Jacquard / Sheared fur / Lace / Organza / Mesh
Print + Pattern: Wallpaper florals
Details + Trim: Laser cutouts / Puffed sleeves / Accordion pleats / Metal collar embellishments / Contrast linings / Fur trim / Cascading flounces / Beading / Attached capes
Accessories + Footwear: Long gold pendant necklaces / Gold chain necklaces / Wide leather belts with gold hardware / Boots with gold buckle details / Over-the-knee boots with gold buckles
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