May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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ODE TO THE APIARY
Paris: With chic versions of beekeepers’ hats, honeycomb patterns and bejeweled bee appliqués, Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton presented a fantastical ode to the apiary for spring. With sharp shoulders, rounded hips and almost-unnaturally nipped-in waists, even the silhouettes borrowed from the bees. Tortoiseshell accessories, which represented rich honey, were studded with golden bees, and jacquards and lace were custom-made in honeycomb patterns. Fetish-y elements, including elaborate corsetry and thigh-high leather mesh boots that laced up the back, connected with the dark side that McQueen regularly channeled. Flowers, the symbiotic partner of the bee, appeared as appliqués for the final looks, a series of romantic full-skirted dresses with corset tops. With a mix of dark and light elements and a magnificent display of craftsmanship, Burton once again produced a hit collection that both spoke to the legacy of the label and to her own aesthetic. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Constructed hourglass / Bell-shaped
Color: Black / Gold / Pale yellow / Beige / Poppy / Marigold / White
Key Items: Lace pencil skirts / Hourglass jackets / Tailored pantsuits / Full-skirted dresses
Materials: Honeycomb jacquard / Honeycomb lace / Shiny jacquard / Patent leather / Tulle / Tortoiseshell-patterned plastic / Organza / Fine lace / Satin
Print + Pattern: Honeycombs
Details + Trim: Jeweled bee appliqués / Flower appliqués / Corsetry / Hoop skirts / Tortoiseshell-pattern plastic details / Off-the-shoulder necklines / Sweetheart necklines / Beading / Tiers
Accessories + Footwear: Mesh beekeeper hats / Gold jeweled bee chokers / Tortoiseshell chokers and cuffs / Ladylike structured bag / Jeweled minaudieres / Platform peep-toe leather mesh ankle boots / Platform leather mesh thigh-high boots with lace-up back
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