Milan: For spring, designer Albino D’Amato pulled from a cache of influences as diverse and well-traveled as his resort-ready clothes are meant to be. There were kimono and obi details from Japan, lingerie-like organza babydolls and Baroque wallpaper prints and flourishes – all wrapped up in the jet set glamour of 70s Yves Saint Laurent. Rich silk dupioni in hues of coral, chartreuse and lavender brought a sophisticated, Far East luxury to matched sets, column skirts and sarong-like pencil skirts, while PVC-coated fabrics and trims moved the traditional references in a much-needed contemporary direction. While the showy fabrics certainly enhanced the collection, they also restricted wearability on, especially, casual items like tube tops and short shorts. The collection worked best when fabric matched function, such as floaty habotai trapeze dresses and statuesque column dresses that easily transitioned from day to evening.

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