May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Milan: Alberta Ferretti got serious for Fall, tackling a vision of a strong, capable woman. For a designer usually wedded to a romantic, vintage aesthetic, Ferretti was impressively adept at turning out clean, modern coat dresses with sharp shoulders, sleek leather sheaths and architectural velvet gowns. Knits were chunky and woven with fur, embroidery was angular with rectangular fringe creating texture for evening, and pops of color were vibrant; a short-sleeved mink dyed cobalt blue looked both fun and edgy. Ferretti furthered her urban shift with accessories like mirrored sunglasses, portfolio clutches and corset belts cinched tight, but it was her pinstriped suiting which truly signaled an effort to capture a new customer more focused on stalking the office floor rather than the party circuit.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim / Fitted / Lean / Boxy
Color: Black / Charcoal / Vibrant lilac / White / Cobalt / Tomato red
Key Items: Sheer cocktail dresses / Knit fur cardigans / Cropped fur jackets / Pinstriped overcoats / Pencil skirts / Sheath dresses / Short-sleeve fur coats / Menswear suiting / Tulle gowns
Materials: Silk / Chiffon / Lace / Cashmere / Wool / Fur knits / Satin / Leather / Velvet / Tulle
Print + Pattern: Pinstripes
Details + Trim: Floral embroidery / Contrast pockets / Feathers / Sheer overlay / Burnouts / Rectangular fringe / Sheer panels / Contrast piping / Woven textures
Accessories + Footwear: Thin leather belts / Pumps / Portfolio clutches / Long leather gloves / Mirrored sunglasses
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