Paris: After a visit to the much-admired gardens of Kyoto, designer Albert Kriemler was inspired to channel that same simplicity, refinement, and most of all, elegance into the spring Akris collection. Working within the new minimalism, Kriemler seemed to design on the basis of the shortest distance between two points. In the literal sense, diagonal lines cut through wrapped skirts, tops, jackets and dresses, letting the uneven hems hang; bias-cut sateen defined long, swishing gypsy skirts. On a more conceptual level, Kriemler seemed to take shortcuts in construction, eliminating any unnecessary style lines – collars, darts, sleeves – or creating the illusion of seamlessness with hidden closures and invisible zippers. Any collars or sleeves were cut flat in one piece with the garment’s body – using supple fabrics that are firm enough to retain shape – while handy cargo pockets were cut completely square. To offset all the austere surfaces, Kriemler infused the collection with Crayola primaries, pastels, muted utilitarian hues, and rich texture mixes of sleek leathers, crisp cotton-silk suitings, sporty mesh and rugged denim. It was a strong offering in keeping with Akris’s reputation for chic, classic clothes that resonate with a well-heeled, well-traveled customer.

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