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Adam Kimmel

UNDERTOW
Paris: Adam Kimmel made good on his promise to deliver a collection he called “Dark Surf,” inspired by a group of beach toughs the designer befriended in Los Angeles. Kimmel showed black and olive camouflage suits featuring Bermuda shorts, grease monkey jumpsuits, and vaguely grim Hawaiian shirts in midnight blue, olive, and deep carmine, as well a slightly more upbeat riff on the this classic beach top that depicted silhouetted surfer graphics in red or blue on a background of black punctuated with white stars. Bottoms were rubberized boardshorts or 50s-style tab front silk-linen trousers. Many models walked barefoot, and those that donned footwear wore surf style suede or nylon slip-ons, or motorcycle boots that, like Kimmel’s jumpsuits, evoked a rough, only-in-America beach bum biker. It seems that Kimmel’s surfing hoods were not the only friends of his who influenced this collection. Bearded models with long braided hair evoked Kimmel’s deceased friend Dash Snow, appearing right next to legendary pro-skater Brian Anderson, who walked barefoot, wearing a black t-shirt under a dark blue, three-button suit distinguished by its straight, zipper-closure side pockets.  —Andrew Luecke

Color: Olive / Black / Carnelian / Goldenrod / Midnight blue

Key Items: Hawaiian shirts / Cotton bomber jackets / Jumpsuits / Rubberized boardshorts / Tab-front trousers

Materials: Silk-linen blends / Cotton suiting / Chino / Suede / Nylon

Print + Pattern: Hawaiian prints / Camouflage / Psychedelic surf graphics

Details + Trim: Contrast color zippers / High-stance, three-button suit closures

Accessories + Footwear: Suede or nylon slip-ons / Work boots

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