Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: The work of Swedish artist and playwright, August Strindberg, was well known to his countryman, Acne Studios designer Jonny Johansson, but it wasn’t until recently that Johansson began to appreciate him. Strindberg’s haunting self-portraits became the inspiration behind Johansson’s Pre-Fall collection. With his heavy brow and pinched mouth, Strindberg cut an imposing figure. Heavy materials, including shearling, leather, and twill seemed to capture the intensity and harshness of his expression, and murky shades of blue and black were intended to capture the darkness of a Swedish winter. But it wasn’t all doom and gloom. Johansson included delicate lace, ethereal whites, and even a romantic floral to lighten the mood. Cheeky touches of dalmatian spots and teddy bear pile added a sense of humor. Exaggerated proportions, a key story this season, made it all feel fresh and current.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Oversized / Tent / Slouchy / Long layers / A-line / Cylindrical
Color: Inky blue / Black / Ethereal white / Beige / Ice blue / Magenta / Forest green / Peach
Key Items: Oversized coats / Shearling anorak / Teddy bear coat / Dalmatian print matched set / Floral gown
Materials: Shearling / Heavy boiled wool / Double-faced cottons / Nylon / Lace / Slick leather / Teddy bear pile
Print + Pattern: Dalmatian spots / Colorful floral / Large-scale watercolor floral
Details + Trim: Contrast pockets / Zippers / Flap pockets / Hoods / Asymmetrical hemlines
Accessories + Footwear: Teddy bear pile or dalmation print tall-crown hats / Cross-body sling bags / Ankle-strap Mary Janes / Ankle boots with straps / Knee-high boots with cutouts / Sporty sneakers
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