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Acne Studios


DECONTEXTUALIZED FASHION
Swedish brand Acne premiered in Paris at the Grand Palais. For this collection Acne sought to make the invisible visible and the unwearable wearable, with a collaboration between artist Katerina Jebb and the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris. Jonny Johansson, founder and head of design, said,  “Art is something I enjoy in my work as well as in my private life, so collaborating with Katerina has been a privilege.”  More explanation came from the show notes: “We’ve had access to the museum’s remarkable archive of historical garments, and in forming our collection around them we are resurrecting things that would otherwise be hidden.” Katerina Jebb created artworks by scanning the insides of garments from the archive, and using them to construct photomontages.  The artwork was also used as placement prints on suits and overcoats — daring but refreshing. Decoration that looked like yarn from a distance was really metallic chains “threaded” through heavy knits. Tailoring was deconstructed, sleeves were taken off, and backs were left bare or split open. In all, the collection was a gorgeous collage of history and art made wearable and desirable.  —Celia Ingesson

Silhouette: Menswear / Deconstructed/ Long / Layered

Color: Okra / Terracotta / Teal / Blush / Nude / Peacock / Wine / Vanilla / White / Black / Navy

Key Items: Placement printed “menswear” suit / Long allover printed satin dresses / Oversized menswear waistcoat blazer styles  / Trousers with apron like skirts / Embroidered knitwear with chains

Materials: Wool / Melton wool / Crepe silk / Silk georgette / Cotton corduroy

Print + Pattern:  Color blocking / Laminated borders / Placement prints by artist Katerina Jebb

Details + Trim: Metallic chain embroidery / Belt fastenings inside / Laminated turn ups

Accessories + Footwear: Open toe with architectural heels and high cuffs / Colorful bare flats / Strappy sandals/ Box-like metallic bags / Round hats with shawls attached and tied

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK

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