Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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London: Acne has come a long way since it was launched as a denim company in Sweden in 1996. The collection released a full line of ready-to-wear in 1998, then expanded further into accessories, and even began publishing an influential magazine called Acne Paper. For spring, creative director Jonny Johansson stamped the words “MUSIC,” “NEW,” and “COLLAGE” on T-shirts in the show, spelling out his influences for the season. Straps and buckles were lashed onto skirts, pants and jackets, possibly a nod to punk rockers’ repurposing of straight jackets. There was plenty of piecing and mixed materials, justifying the “COLLAGE” stamp. The most interesting aspect of the collection, however, was its emphasis on shoulders. Blouses appeared to have been yanked down to reveal bare shoulders, while other items featured cutouts at the shoulders. Still others were ruched and puffed up at the shoulders. Johansson also wisely included the season’s all-important jailbird stripes, making his standout collection even more relevant. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Hip-slung / Boxy / Wide-shouldered
Color: Lavender / Dove grey / Royal purple / Kelly green / Tan / Sand beige / Burnt orange / Caution orange / Indigo / Bright red / Black / White
Key Items: Slogan tees / Puff-shoulder shirts / Jackets with strap closures / Striped pants / Long skirts
Materials: Striped twill / Cotton jersey / Suede / Bonded leather / Airy silks / Summer suitings / Croc
Print + Pattern: Jailbird stripes / Conversationals / Ombré / Watery texture prints
Details + Trim: Off-the-shoulder necklines / Shoulder cutouts / Piecing / Straps and buckles / Puff sleeves / Gathering
Accessories + Footwear: Warped cowboy hats / Distressed doctor bags / Flat loafers / Multi-strap knee-high fisherman sandals / Square-toe pumps / Japanese-inspired square-toe sandals
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