London: The Acne label has proven fascinating to fashion enthusiasts worldwide for its voracious pursuit of hybrid aesthetics: tapping disparate references and embracing the very contemporary hi-low culture of global style. They can be as accessible as your favorite jeans, as experimental as one would expect from Scandinavian design, and even as luxe as an ages-old European megabrand. And miraculously, they can do it all simultaneously. Helmed by Jonny Johanson, for F/W 2012 Acne remixed their progressive sportswear assortment with elements of post-operative paraphernalia. Leathers took on operating room-ready textures like latex and silicon, while belts resembling post-surgical braces fastened over and under coats, sweaters, and pants. Though certain styling approaches (rigid neck braces-cum-chokers) created an extreme effect, within the looks one could still find the high-quality cool separates around which Acne has built a cult. —Kibwe Chase-Marshall

Silhouette: Boxy / Cylindircal / Straight / Cocoon / Slouchy / Lean /

Color: Burgundy / Nude / Chalk / Cement / Vermillion / Platinum / Pale salmon / Gunmetal / Concrete / Slate / Taxi / Curry / Robin’s egg / Walnut / Rust / Black / Navy / Sage / Bright lime / Concrete / Slate / Teal / Oxford blue

Key Items: Patch-flap pocket narrow trouser / Asymmetrical leather dress / Over-sized coat / Slouchy trouser

Materials: Supple-patent leather / Wax-finish leather / Zibellino-texture coating / Bonded cotton poplin / Metal-fiber gazar / Matte cire / Sharkskin suiting

Print + Pattern: Puzzle Abstract

Details + Trim: Over-sized pocket-flap / Decorative grommets / Raw-edge finishes

Accessories + Footwear: Cut-out bootie-sandal / Velcro-tab sneaker-bootie


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