May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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OUT OF PROPORTION
New York: The Acne label often plays with contradictions, experimenting with jarring colors, fits and silhouettes. Inspired by 90s adolescent angst for Pre-Fall, they took on proportion and layering, mixing mid-length outerwear with angular, wrapped miniskirts, boxy knit tops and cropped trousers. Silhouettes were sleek, with small notch collars providing clean lines broken up by touches of fur and reflective silver leathers treated to look like tinfoil. Each ensemble was anchored by heavy footwear, such as lug soled brogues and transparent galoshes with a garter attachment, but hanging industrial chain belts seemed raw and out of place. Although the many miniskirts, sheer blouses and trousers embellished with slits held a certain rebellious appeal, it was a series of more traditional pinstripes items which showed Acne’s true strength: sophisticated separates for the creative professional.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Long / Layered / Boxy / Cropped
Color: Cinnamon / Teal / Cherry red / Silver / Cobalt / Black / Camel / Olive / White / Pumice / Cream / Evergreen / Lavender / Ice blue
Key Items: Mid-length leather blazers / Straight skirts / Miniskirts / Cropped trousers / Sheer blouses / Sleeveless coats / Cropped knit crewnecks / Relaxed suiting / Leather turtlenecks / Skinny trousers
Materials: Leather / Cotton / Sheared furs / Tweed / Mohair / Cashmere / Openweave knits
Print + Pattern: Stripes / Colorblocking / Grid prints / Abstract florals
Details + Trim: Wide straps / Zippers / Slits
Accessories + Footwear: High-heeled loafers / Chain belts / Lace-up brogues / Portfolio bags / Transparent weekender bags / PVC Galoshes / Foldover clutches / Wide leather belts / Angular sunglasses
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