Dec 13, 2017 | By Sandra Halliday
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London: Erdem Moralioglu asked artist Robin Brown to produce a set for his Autumn / Winter 2015 collection after seeing a Brown’s piece at Frieze Masters last year entitled “The Collector”. ‘I was fascinated to create a character through environment as much as through clothes’ – said the designer backstage. The set imagined the house of an art collector filled with books, stacks of papers and of course, lots of art. The romantic lineup featured gorgeous dresses and tailored coats in rich metallic brocades, upholstery fabrics and romantic coloured lace giving the pieces a modern Victorian sensibility. The richness of materials was toughened through raw and frayed edges. Silhouettes were shorter, easier and more fluid than in previous seasons – boxier shapes updated floral shift dresses and overcoats while floating feathers and silk materials brought movement to evening gowns. Claudia Cardinale and Kim Novak movie characters inspired Erdem to create his new muse – the pencil skirts, the round-shoulders coats, the tweed tailored garments and those two needle-punched camel coats. Romance and sophistication at their best. – Diego Sanchez
Theme: A romantic art collector
Key Items: Needle-punched camel coats / Mid-century skirts / Leopard fur coat / Tweed set / Patchwork mini dresses / Victorian neck dresses / Round shoulder coat / Polo-neck dresses / Lace dresses
Colour: Regal purple / Jade green / Black / Red / Dark camel / Pink
Materials + Trim: Tweed / Fur / Silk / Camel hair / Wool / Brocades / Lace / Embroidery / Leather / Shearling
Print + Pattern: Florals / Leopard print / Damask motif / Wallpaper prints
Accessories + Footwear: Laced ankle boots
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