A moody culture clash and exquisite craftsmanship at Givenchy

Paris: In the show notes at Givenchy’s Autumn winter presentation Riccardo Tisci  stated that his ideas came from “aggressive aesthetics” drawn from the juxtaposition of cultures – elements of moody Victoriana and South American Chola girls. Once one got past the disarranged setting of pinball machines, video games and basketball hoops, focus turned to the models whose faces were embellished with dramatic jewelry resembling body art and framed with plastered kiss curls which gave the entire look an edgy provocative ambiance. Tisci’s crafted short, trim jackets and coat tailed pieces were teamed over sleek pants, some with full peplums or others left with raw edges and velvet trim. This exquisite tailoring looked couture with the craftsmanship of hand beaded and bejeweled embroideries over extended shoulders. The dresses, cut mostly in velvet were finely detailed with silk georgette ruffles and flocking, accentuating a ‘corseted’ waist while a peacock printed creation cut in strips and crafted on the bias looked rich, opulent and romantic – a true work of art. – Lizzy Bowring

Theme: Moody, Dark Victoriana and Chola girls.

Key Items: Nipped waist jackets / Pieced dresses / Frock coats / Frock coats / Romantic dresses / Slim trousers / Matador jackets / Cropped fur jacket / Tailored jacket / Fur stole

Colour: Black / Midnight / Deep claret / Cream

Trims and Materials: Silk chiffon / Velvet / Flocking / Jewels / Silk de chine / Feather and intarsia mink / Silk jacquard / Fur / Quilted jacquard / Herringbone / Contrast edging / Leather

Print and Pattern: ‘Abstract’ Peacock feathers / Crosses / Byzantine scrollwork / Tram track stripe / Photoreal Satyr

Footwear and Accessories: Mid-calf boots / Large jeweled earrings / Velvet boots

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