A Détacher

New York: Reading like a children’s storybook, A Détacher’s show notes – while whimsical – do not usually yield too many specifics about the collection, such as silhouette and fabric. In keeping with the “Travel & Camouflage” theme of the show, this season’s notes included amusing instructions on how to fold a paper airplane. As the show progressed, the meaning behind the random tutorial, as well as the show title, revealed itself. Monika Kowalska makes clothes for a certain type of woman – one who leans toward the romantic, off-kilter and cerebral. For Fall, she made sure those clothes traveled well, in relaxed proportions and easy-care yet luxurious fabrics. Global references were mixed and mellowed into a new urban uniform of floaty wool ponchos, paperbag trousers and Geta-style kilties. (Prints of the world map provided a literal interpretation.) An origami-like folding along the neckline and sleeve, resembling something of a yoke or a facing turned inside-out, was a recurring motif on blouses and coats. Sound familiar? Refer to Step 1: Fold the upper corners of the paper until they meet in the center.Nivara Xaykao

Silhouette: Ladylike relaxed / Straight-slouchy

Color: Chocolate / Persimmon / Robin’s egg blue / Navy / Wheat / Lilac

Key Items: Sack dress / Poncho top / Banded sweatpants / Paratrooper jumpsuit / Cardi-dress / Paper-bag foldover pants / Straight dirndl / Printed collarless coat

Materials: Pashmina scarf fabrics / Pajama silks / Wool-linen blend woven / Workwear denim / Plush knits

Print + Pattern: Fur textures / Fine-line fractals / World map / Referee stripes

Details + Trim: “Inside-out” facings / Flounces / Fringe ends / Elasticized waists

Accessories + Footwear: Metal collars / White pumps / Kiltie clogs / Suede booties / Wool ribbed tights / Slouchy beanie / Turtleneck gaiters


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