A Detacher



New York: For the S/S 11 A Détacher collection, designer Mona Kowalska was inspired by neurosis. Charmingly quirky and sweet, but with eerie undercurrents, the show read like a Grimm’s fairy tale on anti-depressants. Each look was identified with a storybook-style sentence on the show program. A mod black sheath ornamented with a pair of circle cutouts was listed as “Hildie cut peep holes in her dress,” while a two-piece short set that resembled pajamas was labeled “Mia has refused to get out of bed for three months now.” Always offbeat, Kowalska mixed exaggerated childlike proportions with grown-up body-con shapes and mismatched sleeves and collars. The designer also played with patterns and construction techniques. Large-scale digital gingham check prints, items made of woven-together lace strands, and piecing that created horizontal ruching were among the successful experiments this season.

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