Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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New York: Prabal Gurung sent his models marching down the runway in opulent fashion. “I read an article about female body-armor that inspired me. I have always been into empowering women,” said Gurung backstage. Entitled “Imperial”, the inspiration was evident in elaborate Loden green peplum jackets decorated with pipings, handmade Baroque borders and fur collars. Leather harnesses and wide belts cinched the waist. A strong military influence was expressed not only in the marching soundtrack, but in the abundance of details — regiment coats, pea coats, parkas and double-breasted jackets were decorated with ornate pipings, epaulets and brocade trims, and styled with silk charmeuse officer’s shirts and ultra-slim jodhpur pants. Prabal played with asymmetric cutaways, draping and angular seaming, adding his trademark sensuality to the collection. One of the most interesting styles was a heavy knit dress with giant cables and clever cutouts. “I’m always influenced by my origin, and I want to enhance the female form,” said the Nepalese designer. Saris inspired intriguing dresses, cleverly draped to reveal midriffs and shoulders or legs with dangerously high slits. Prabal ended with a parade of one-shoulder showstoppers, before he arranged all models in a military line up – very impressive. Gurung doesn’t do demure; these are red-carpet clothes to make an entrance in. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Draped / Imperial / Baroque / Asymmetric
Color: Loden green / Crimson / Navy / Gold / Black / Ivory
Key Items: The decorated peplum jackets / Asymmetric cut out dresses, tops and skirts / Color-blocked officer’s silk shirts / Red and black patchwork fur coat / One-shoulder evening dresses / Leather harness belts
Materials: Leather/ Silk: crepe, CDC or satin / Wool crepe / Wool flannel / Cotton twill / Fox fur / Astrakhan fur / Brocade / Denim / Hand-knit wool
Print + Pattern: Patchwork / Imperial brocade
Details + Trim: Organza ruffle / Gold hand-embroidered borders / Swarovski / Epaulets / Leather harness
Accessories + Footwear: High boots over knee boots with straps and gold buckles / Sharp loafer inspired with tassels, high stiletto heals and gold buckles
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