Elie Saab – Haute Couture S/S 2013

The Hollywood darling Elie Saab showed a more demure collection this season. Entitled ”Ode to delicateness”, it was feather light, playing with degrees of transparency. Sparkling embroideries encrusted see-through laces and silks, to create ethereal gowns with illusion necklines that beautifully showed of this season’s focal point – the shoulders. These creations in elegant pastels and nudes seemed to float around the body, but it was the capes — this Couture season’s surprise key item — that added modernity to the collection. It started with a small shoulder-covering, delicately embroidered piece followed by a fingertip-long white one, stunning in its simplicity; later came a showstopper: a floor-sweeping red cape with dramatic split back. There were plenty of the designer’s familiar hourglass and fishtail columns, but this season he introduced a new shorter Fifties shape, often with a fresh ¾ sheer sleeve. Waists were marked with an ultra slim belt that added a nonchalant edge to the dresses and gowns. Saab has the ability to really show off and sculpt the figure — there are sure to be celebrity stylists fighting over his strategically embroidered nude gowns from this Oscars-worthy collection. Like many designers this season, Saab stuck to the traditional motifs of Couture, showing off artisanal embroidery skills with flowers and ornate arabesques emphasizing shoulders and narrow waists. And in true Couture style, Saab ended the show with a crinolined wedding gown with panniers extending the hips perhaps more suited for Marie Antoinette then the modern day princesses who will certainly continue to favour the Lebanese couturier. —Celia Ingesson

Silhouette: Fishtail columns / Hourglass / 50s Ladylike

Color: Blush/ Nude / Silver / Ice blue / Barely-there lilac / Champagne / White/ Crimson /Black

Key Items: Cape/ Strapless cocktail dresses (short and long)/ Column shaped floor length dresses/ ¾ Sleeved dresses/ Illusion necklines/

Materials:  Silk crepes/ Silk chiffon / Organza /Chantilly lace / Silk sateen

Print + Pattern: Flower motifs/ Ornate pattern/ Decorative lace

Details + Trim: Lace appliqués and inserts / Flower embroideries and appliqués/ Silver-colored beads and sequins / Lace overlays/ Jewel necklines / ¾ sleeves

Accessories + Footwear: Pumps with a soft-point toe, with ankle strap covered in the dress fabrics (lace, silks, sequence embroidered)


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