May 30, 2019 | By Louise Squire
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With alumni from Alexander McQueen to Phoebe Philo, the Central Saint Martins Graduates MA show is one of the most anticipated shows of the Fall season; our Associate Catwalks Editor, Anna Ross, chats to WGSN’s top 5 “one’s to watch” about their final collections and plans for the future.
Joint winner of this year’s prestigious L’Oreal prize, Stefan Cooke’s collection focused on the monotony of wardrobe basics, re-contextualizing everyday pieces such as jeans and argyle jumpers using digital and hand-rendered applications. “I wanted the collection to be familiar, but as if you’re seeing it for the first time,” Cooke explained while adding how the Central St Martins course “made me push through my own self-doubt and to get the best out of myself creatively.” Stefan now plans on working collaborativley, with a few projects already in the pipeline.
Sharing the L’Oreal prize this year with Stefan was Gabriele Skucas, who painstakingly hand-crocheted her way to an exquisite and refined collection. ” One crocheted skirt took thirty four days to complete,” said Skucas, who approached her final collection with laboriously intensive techniques as a way of “banning myself from the attractive lure of modern textiles exploration.” The collection served as an emotional platform too, commenting on the suppression of women in society; ” I intend to express negativity in a quiet way, using stereotypically pretty garments, worn by seemingly “good” girls.”
Oliver Thame’s accomplished collection combined rich textures with familiar silhouettes to stunning effect. Inspired by a group of young rebel soldiers depicted in Jean-Stéphane Sauvaire’s film Johnny Mad Dog, Thane focused on creating a balance between uniformity and individuality by creating 5 personas within the collection. “I wanted to create something which was loud and excessive; nothing is said, everything is shouted,” said Thame. Next up, Oliver plans to build on these aesthetic persona’s, re-released under the branding H-ours ; www.h-ours.co.uk
Joshua Walters collection wowed us with it’s refined, modernist aesthetic; “ The collection seeks to subvert modern ideals of beauty by proposing a purposeful and gender-neutral silhouette.” Said Walters, who focused on a singular colour palette, paying dogmatic regard for the consistency of fabric, fabrication and functionality, creating a collection “to become a new clothing archetype.” Talking warmly of the CSM MA, Walters learnt to “rigorously question my own ideas in order to create a philosophical framework and vernacular approach to my design.” Having just released the third “3Man” collection in Dover Street Market London and Japan, Walter’s future is a bright one.
In a collection based on “elegance and glamour – because we really need that at the moment!” Peter Morvin sent forth a collection buzzing with colour and volume, making his own fabrics from paper, foil and organza, “combining the cheap and the expensive.” Commenting on the MA experience, Morvin says “The course has taught me to be quick, coherent and don’t dream too much. It’s about reality.” – Sound advice!
Follow the Catwalk Team’s Anna Ross on Instagram, as she uncovers the best moments from the fashion season.
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