May 30, 2019 | By Louise Squire
Last month saw the latest edition of São Paulo Fashion Week, which notably operated fully on the “see now, buy now” calendar. This structural change also impacted the line-up, as new designers were invited to show. While some of the most traditional Brazilian brands such as Ronaldo Fraga, Reinaldo Lourenço and Glória Coelho skipped presenting this season in order to adjust to the new calendar for the next one, new designers and brands had the opportunity to join and brought great new partnerships and collaborations to Brazil’s most important fashion week.
Inspired by the book The Cloven Viscount, Luiz Claudio Silvia’s winter collection for Apartamento 03 brought to the runway elongated silhouettes, embroidered tailoring, and delicate butterfly prints (offered up in both small and large scale). Those same butterflies were also used in one of the flat mules designed in collaboration with upcoming footwear brand Inbox Shoes. The brand also created mules with other colour and print variations, such as the half-black and half-white that represented the book’s main character battle between good and evil.
Probably the most talked about collab of this SPFW season, designers Alexandre Herchcovitch and Fábio Souza teamed up with Vans to create customized sneakers for their latest collection for A La Garçonne, complementing the sporty vibe seen in part of the collection . As is the brand’s signature, the classic Vans were hand painted with ropes and customized with straps in 20 different variations, creating only 120 pairs to be sold in their flagship store in São Paulo. Personalization has never looked so good!
In addition to Memo’s collab with womenswear brand Lilly Sarti, Memo also joined footwear brand Fiever for the second time in SPFW to create the shoes for the athleisure collection. Fiever is best known for its youthful appeal and brought its unique vibe to a selection of sneakers, sliders and boots inspired in the sports Memo’s apparel referenced in the winter collection – from tennis to scuba diving. City/ urban were also infused within the collection, using materials such as plastic for the sneakers, fake fur in sliders and felt for the knee-high sneaker-boots hybrids.
Although not created specifically for the show, Melissa’s classic brogues were used by designer João Pimenta for his winter collection. Originally a women’s’ footwear brand, Melissa’s latest collection proposes that their shoes are genderless and can be worn by anyone. Similarly, Pimenta’s menswear brand also brought men models wearing fluid skirts and long tunics, in the attempt to bridge the gap between menswear and womenswear.
Cotton Project + Puma + Pegé
For its third SPFW collection, indie brand Cotton Project partnered with several brands in order to create its relaxed mood of the season – its moto was “Relaxation is Priority”. With Puma, Cotton Project asked for Rihanna’s trendy creeper sneakers to be created in men’s sizes, using the neutral colour card of the show. Pegé brought its Moroccan slippers in shearling materials and stronger colours, complementing perfectly the relaxed, almost sleepy mood of the show.
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