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3.1 Phillip Lim

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SPACIAL EXPERIMENTS

New York: Phillip Lim can be added to the long list of designers who featured sheers this season. Basing his S/S 11 collection around a theme of positive versus negative space, Lim turned to sheer silks, layered styling, and cutouts to aid his exploration of spacial relationships. Deco patterns created by pieced panels of varying opacities were showcased on a series of architectural items. The classic trench was reinterpreted in pale sheer silk, with black piping to emphasize its tailored structure. Aprons and apron-shaped panels were responsible for the collection’s most dominant silhouette – an understated, angular hourglass with straight lines and a defined natural waist. Illusions created by fabrics had a brainy-playful effect, like that of an M.C. Escher piece; sheer pants that resembled dotted swiss were actually decorated by sequin polka dots, and criss-crossed grosgrain formed a two-tone check pattern. A leather choker in the shape of a collar also worked into the trompe l’oeil theme. Lim debuted his first-ever footwear and handbag collections this season; neutral-hued and basic in shape, the accessories quietly and tastefully blended into the designer’s vision.

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