Jan 19, 2017 | By Jian DeLeon
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GANGS OF NEW YORK
Phillip Lim showed a confident collection influenced by the what the show notes called the “racer generation”. He started strong with an embossed overcoat with detachable leather bib and continued with motorcycle jackets, parkas and racer dresses, all with plenty of detachable details and biker references. “It all started with an old Harley Davidson helmet; I always been fascinated by gang mentality, and studied the history of bikers, ” Lim told us post show. That inspiration (apparent in Lim’s recent Pre-Fall collection) showed here in mini-skirts worn with over-the-knee sandal boots and oversized leather sweatshirts with moto zip details, and a stunning cognac leather peplum motorcycle jacket. Femininity came from fluffy angora sweaters and draped silk print dresses. There was some impressive tailoring too; a navy chenille double-breasted blazer and dickie pant stood out. But it was the outdoor coats and jackets that ruled the show — a deep teal techno wool parka with Mongolian hood, a multi-rabbit fur camo coat, an olive patchwork shearling coat with detachable biker cuff. “The badges I added to the denims were inspired by memorabilia that gangs collect along the road,” said Lim. They adorned skinny patchwork denim cargo jeans, racer dresses and jumpsuits. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Biker/ Oversized / Boyfriend / Tailored / Skinny
Color: Olive / Army green / Cinnamon / Camel / Teal / Sapphire / Navy / Grey mélange / Black / Ivory
Key Items: The motorcycle vest in leather / Patchwork rabbit hair coats and jackets / Oversized parkas / Oversized sweatshirts in jersey or leather / Stovepipe trousers / Quilted mini skirts / Metallic laminated knitwear
Materials: Neoprene / Leather: bonded, or plain / Natural snakeskin / Silk / Techno wool / Felt / Jacquard/ Pony / Fur / Angora / Sweatshirt jersey
Print + Pattern: Patchwork and badges / Color and fabric blocking / black &white feather print / Window checks / Flannel checks / Biker-inspired font prints
Details + Trim: Embossing quilting effect / Leather and metallic contrasts / Contrasting fabrics and trimmings / Subtle color blocking / Heavy metallic zips and bike snap buttons
Accessories + Footwear: Snakeskin satchel / Double compartment cross body bag/ Harley sunglasses / Over knee boot sandal / Ankle strap mule / “Harley” sunglasses /Holdall “Ryder” bags / Alexis Bittar chandelier earrings with peacock feather motifs
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