May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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GRUNGE GOES GAUZE
New York: Phillip Lim is in love with cultural movements and has a knack for synthesizing them in a way few other designers can achieve. Subtly referential without becoming banal, Lim’s S/S 13 applied William S. Burroughs’ famous “cut-up” technique to an upscale grunge aesthetic, deconstructing 90s florals and plaids into asymmetric skirts, gauzy plaids, and patchwork t-shirt dresses. He even went so far as to layer a shredded mini-floral babydoll tank over a plaid button down in true riot girl fashion. But what made the collection fresh rather than a re-working of a recently trendy era was lightness of both palette and fabric. Rendered in gauzy sheer silk, crisp white and ice-blue, deconstructed grunge looked feminine and sophisticated, while just the right amount of toughness was communicated via ribbed silk motorcycle jackets, patchworked olive khakis and tattered denim.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slouchy / Slim
Color: Navy / White / Black / Gold / Fuchsia / Navy / Ice blue / Lavender / Olive green / Stone / Chartreuse / Cobalt
Key Items: Deconstructed tank dresses / Sleeveless anoraks / Message t-shirts / Relaxed sheer trousers / Ribbed silk motorcycle jackets / Patchworked khakis / Contrast sleeve sweatshirts / Plaid blouses / Overalls
Materials: Sheer silk / Patchwork denim / Nylon / Nubuck leather / Cracked patent leather / Jersey / Spiderweb knits / Bonded fleece / Twill
Print + Pattern: Miniature abstract florals / Sheer plaids / Message graphics / Dalmatian spots / Leopard prints / Graphic florals
Details + Trim: Deconstruction / Asymmetry / Contrast collars / Patchwork / Ribbing / Contrast sleeves / Fringe / Zippers / Buckles
Accessories + Footwear: Gladiator sandal-shoes / Patterned belts / Mesh ankle socks / Oversized pale sunglasses / Mesh booties / Square weekend bags / Gold leather totes / Peep-toe pumps / Monk-strap shoes
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