3.1 Phillip Lim

Paris: Phillip Lim’s work usually hits fashion’s sweet spot, achieving accessibility without sacrificing creativity. But for F/W 12, Lim’s concept and styling got in the way of his message, resulting in a collection that was difficult to decipher. Haphazard layering and stark black and white made some ensembles look like costumes from A Clockwork Orange, while long shorts and chunky footwear attempted a punk attitude which fell flat. Bomber jackets have been popular this week, and fortunately Lim provided a well-executed version in both leather and sage nylon. In the end, pieces with simple silhouettes, such as tapered tweed trousers or basic jersey crewneck sweatshirts, will still prove saleable off the runway. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Long / Layered / Oversized

Color: Black / White / Grey / Tan / Bright red / Plum / Apricot / Burgundy / Aquamarine / Baby blue / Navy / Stone / Sage

Key Items: Sleek bomber jackets / Elongated shorts / Slim turtlenecks / Overcoats / Tapered trousers / Jersey sweatshirts / Vests / Transparent raincoats / Patterned suiting / Crewneck sweaters

Materials: Wool / Leather / Silk / Jersey / Organza / Knits / Tweed

Print + Pattern: Geometrics / Checks / Logo graphics / Digitized houndstooth

Details + Trim: Draping / Zippers / Trapunto stitching / Pleating / Layering

Accessories + Footwear: Oversized cross body bags / Rounded sunglasses / Derby shoes / Thick leather belts / Aviator sunglasses / Combat boots / Short silk ties / Multi-finger rings / Portfolio bags

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