454 posts tagged S/S 2013 in ALL BLOGS

Stella McCartney -

GOOD SPORT Paris: Having recently designed the Olympic uniforms for the British team, Stella McCartney still had sport on her mind for spring. Warm-up jackets, sweatshirts and tracksuits were interspersed throughout the collection, and jersey and mesh were key materials. McCartney seamlessly transitioned back and forth between sport and sportswear, offering the relaxed tailoring her clients love, as well as elegant ...
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Stella McCartney S/S 2013

Detail of the Day – Kenzo -

Opening Ceremony founders and creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have proven they can be counted on for a heaping dose of fun in their collection for the Japanese brand Kenzo. This season they continued their sporty-tough-girl meets uptown-90s-lady story with digitized tropical prints, military detailing and some seriously sexy bustiers. —Shannon Davenport
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Kenzo RTW Spring Summer 2013 Paris Fashion Week Sept-Oct 2012

Akris -

CELEBRATING A MILESTONE Paris: In commemoration of Akris's 90th anniversary, creative director Albert Kriemler put out an epic collection of ninety looks. There were the tailored pantsuits, pleated skirts and simple sheaths that its clients have come to expect, but Kriemler also played with transparency. Using a variety of materials, from geometric patterned lace to embroidered tulle to laser-cut leather, the ...
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Akris S/S 2013

Hexa by Kuho -

VOLUMINOUS EXPRESSION Paris: After a few successful seasons in New York, Kuho Jung took his collection to the big leagues and has shown in Paris the past two seasons. His conceptual work seems to fit well there. As he is wont to do, the designer played with volume for spring. Creative pleating and ruching combined with firm fabrics made for shapes ...
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Givenchy -

A LIGHTER HAND Paris: In recent seasons, Riccardo Tisci has had much success with print and embellishment. No one can forget that ubiquitous gorilla tee or the lovely bird of paradise print. His F/W 12 couture collection featured elaborately woven leather and copious amounts of beaded fringe, and resort was all about piecing. But Tisci seemed to brush all that aside ...
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Givenchy S/S 2013

John Galliano -

TURN UP THE VOLUME Paris: Formerly John Galliano's right hand man, Bill Gaytten inherited design duties at both Galliano's signature label and Christian Dior after his boss's unceremonious removal. The roles were extraordinarily daunting, and though there were bright moments, many fashion followers were underwhelmed with his collections. With Dior now under Raf Simons' direction, Gaytten is left to focus on ...
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John Galliano S/S 2013

Runway Flash – Flat Art -

Perhaps a side effect of the current fascination with kimonos (which are created from a flat pattern, rather than draped), flat constructions are informing many key collections in Paris. Designers explore the concept with simple square-shaped shift dresses or with complex origami folds. Some use contoured color-blocks or photo-prints to create the illusion of depth on the two-dimensional plane. – ...
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Sonia Rykiel -

BOHEMIAN SWAN SONG Paris: The final collection from Sonia Rykiel’s successor April Crichton was presented this season in the showroom rather than on the runway, a low-key venue that complimented the serenity of Spring. Although Crichton edited out Rykiel’s classic bright and energetic stripe, her replacements still spoke to the heritage of the line with draped and tied knit tops shredded ...
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Andrew Gn -

EXOTICISM FOR ROYALTY Paris: Andrew Gn cited India, this season’s favorite destination, as a S/S 13 inspiration, but in contrast to many other collections his interpretation was stately and chic. Perhaps this was because Gn imagined his clothes outfitting Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II on her 1961 trip to Jaipur, creating blousy dohti trousers and prim fitted jackets fastened with pearl buttons. ...
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Costume National -

TAILORED ASYMMETRY Paris: Spliced, asymmetric construction was the central point of Ennio Capasa’s S/S 13 collection for Costume National, a technique which produced mixed results. Simple pieces, such as one-shoulder satin tunics or off-kilter deconstructed tuxedo dresses worked just fine. More intricate one-legged jumpsuits or strappy vests were puzzling, but Capasa’s daubs of color, like the patch of fuchsia on a ...
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Hermès -

HERITAGE DAYS Paris: For spring, Christophe Lemaire seemed to ruminate on the elements that make the venerable house of Hermès what it is. The celebrated scarves were tied to models' wrists or looped around their necks, and the patterns - some featuring Hawaiian landscapes - worked their way onto the garments, as well. Delicate renderings of flora and fauna made for ...
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Hermès S/S 2013

Kenzo -

JUNGLE SURVEILLANCE Paris: After several seasons at Kenzo, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have zeroed in on a number of successful strategies that have revived the aging house. Bright colors are one, which were plentiful again for S/S 13, as are the animal motifs that are now a signature element of the collection. Tropical prints also ran throughout, this time inspired ...
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Céline -

SPA DAY LUXURY Paris: Phoebe Philo often has a loose hand with proportion, favoring relaxed fits and oversized volume, a preference which translated into her version of council estate track suits last year. For Spring Philo relaxed even more, treating her fans with a trip to the spa, complete with fuzzy slippers, trompe l’oeil pumps in the shape of feet and ...
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Loewe -

CRAFTED LUXURY Paris: If Stuart Vevers' tenure at Loewe has not garnered much of a buzz, it isn't because he's not making beautiful clothes. Vevers' sophisticated work for the Spanish house has resulted in lovely, if not splashy, looks over his four years as creative director. This season, the designer focused on the notion of craft, which yielded one of his ...
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Loewe S/S 2013

Jean Paul Gaultier -

GREATEST HITS Paris: From tuxedo pantsuits to cone bras, Jean Paul Gaultier's spring show read like a greatest hits compilation, with the designer bringing back the looks that have defined his career. As Gaultier's heyday was the eighties and early nineties, many of the items had a retro feel. Shoulders were sharp, pants were tapered, and there was lots of innerwear-as-outerwear. ...
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Jean Paul Gaultier S/S 2013