954 posts tagged Men in ALL BLOGS

Hermes -

MONOCHROME TEXTURES Paris: The mostly-black collection felt uncharacteristically edgy for Hermes, especially in combination with the snug-fitting silhouettes, sporty influences and novel use of exotics. Texture played a key role in adding interest to the monochrome looks; suits had lustrous shine, leathers were supple and smooth, and tactile knits provided a cozy contrast. — Anna Jane Davis Key Items: Jersey turtleneck / Hefty pullover / Shiny ...
Read more >


Miharayasuhiro -

BASIC BUT BOLD Paris: Mihara Yasuhiro showed an edited collection of wearable basics, offset by touches of technical materials. Flight parkas came in standard nylon as well as neoprene with coated pockets, while hybridized sweatpant-chinos bore fabric blocking, coin pockets and elasticized cuffs.  — Andrew Luecke Key Items: Tweed blazer / Denim patch shirt / Straight, cropped trouser / Flight parka / ...
Read more >


Kenzo -

STRIKING A BALANCE Paris: Carol Lim and Humberto Leon continued their exploration of colorful, poppy and print-heavy sportswear with this latest collection. However, while they showed crombie coats adorned with a mountain and moon graphic in white, YK blue and Pantone's color of the year, radiant orchid, they also tempered the collection with historical-looking, dark, woolly deck jackets and officer trousers ...
Read more >


Dior Homme -

WELL SUITED Paris: Boyish pinstriped suits, some sporting polka dots, were the basis of Kris Van Assche's collection this season. Military references were layered in, appearing in the form of olive green utility jackets and leather bombers, while denim also tempered the buttoned-up feel with some casualness. Polka dotted accessories and footwear added a dash of lighthearted quirk. — Anna Jane Davis Key Items:  Turtleneck / ...
Read more >


Comme des Garçons -

DECONSTRUCTED BASICS Paris: Rei Kawakubo experimented with addition and subtraction this season; suit jackets featured either large cutouts or attached vest-like layers. Trouser legs were wide and fluid, while knee-length culottes were an unexpected option, given the season. The playful Comme des Garçon quirk was also present, showing up in the form of bright pops of color, an eclectic mix of patterns ...
Read more >


Maison Martin Margiela -

DECONSTRUCTED BASICS Paris: A quintessentially Margiela offering this season included reworked trenchcoats, deconstructed suits and cape hybrids that mimicked utility jackets. A dash of bright cerulean blue energized the mostly grey and black collection, and a series of leather and nylon outerwear with multiple strap closures gave things the futuristic feel we have come to expect from the house. — Anna Jane Davis Key Items:  Chunky ...
Read more >


Junya Watanabe -

PATCH AND GLAM Paris: Junya Watanabe continued his career-long riff on avant-garde prep staples and workwear, adorning denim with a smattering of tweed and tartan patches. Shooting jackets and blazer alike also bore patches, and patch pockets, while double-breasted velvet coats added dandy flourish to the collection. Bowie-inspired glam wigs and bowler hats topped models off.  —Andrew Luecke Key Items: Flight parka ...
Read more >


Nonchalance -

Designers turn to loose cuts and laissez-faire styling to convey nonchalance on recent runways. Loose trousers and roomy overcoats pair with long scarves, over-the-shoulder styling and an unbuttoned shirt to create an air of ease and movement.
Read more >


Yohji Yamamoto -

CRAZY QUILT Paris: Moving away from the mostly-black ensembles we have come to expect from Yohji Yamamoto, this season the designer presented a collection of piled-on layers in an eccentric mix of prints and patterns. The silhouettes were relaxed, as usual, but awakened in a crazy quilt of camo, snakes, skulls, ropes, giant florals and Navajo motifs. — Anna Jane Davis Key Items: Rib knit pullover ...
Read more >


Issey Miyake -

PSYCHEDELIC TRIP Paris:  This season, Issey Miyake presented a festive medley comprised of playful color, tactile materials, and kaleidoscopic digital prints. The tailored silhouettes were basic, and Miyake's signature pleats made anappearance, but it was the iridescent quilting , laminated crackles, and a rainbow of psychedelic motifs that made things feel excitingly fresh. — Anna Jane Davis Key Items: Sweater poncho / Pleated shirt /  ...
Read more >


Dries Van Noten -

FLIGHT OF FANCY Paris: Dries Van Noten’s F/W 14 collection was, in many ways, an inversion of his recent dark floral masterpiece from S/S 14. Here prints abounded again, but pieces dripped with color. A flight parka blazed in bubblegum pink, and a quilted blazer sported a burning blue Southwestern motif. Other aeronautic elements, like parachute pants and pilot boots, underscored Van ...
Read more >


Damir Doma -

SOMBRE PROCESSION Paris: The F/W 14 Damir Doma collection looked somber, even for a designer known for a dark, subdued aesthetic. His palette was nearly all black and grey, but items like suits with overly-long jackets and pieced fleece and nylon pullovers still shown brightly.  —Andrew Luecke Key Items: Long-jacket suit / Zip-neck cycling tee / Specked tweed trouser / Eisenhower jacket ...
Read more >


Rick Owens -

BOYS IN THE HOODS Paris: Rick Owens updated his usual array of black and white drapery with unexpected shots of chocolate brown that were especially noticeably on leather-trimmed overcoats. Owens topped many looks with do-rag style hoods, while his leather boots were unusually tall for men, hitting near the knee.  —Andrew Luecke Key Items: Hidden-button over coat / Single-button crombie coat / Shearling jacket  ...
Read more >


Ethnic Studies

Menswear designers enhance traditional European items with ethnic flourishes. Grey suits benefit from Middle Eastern-style geometric prints, while bright intarsias replace Fair Isle on sweaters and oversized patterned shawls take the place of scarves.
Read more >


3.1 Phillip Lim -

WESTERN ADDITION Paris:  Phillip Lim’s latest brought countrified, western touches to sleek, city slicker looks. Chore coats came in luxurious white or black leather with real shearling collars, while tuxedo shirts bore ranger tip collars and sophisticated denim abounded in shirts, biker pants and jeans.  —Andrew Luecke Key Items: Tartan overcoat / Bouclé bomber / Horse print crewneck / Leather trucker / Huge ...
Read more >