Maison Martin Margiela

Paris: Maison Martin Margiela is certainly not a label to follow trends, but the influence of Fall’s flattened collection from Rei Kawakubo and the tunics-over-trousers matched sets at Prada cannot be denied. For Margiela these looks came pared down and extremely simple. Rectangular and unfinished tunics topped pencil skirts or wide leg trousers, while even round sweetheart neckline jumpsuits were smashed and flattened against the body. Silhouettes were primarily oversized and boxy, but left open at the back to offer a glimpse of skin. Enormous duchesse satin evening dresses obscured the figure completely with rounded skirts, proportions even Margiela’s avant-garde fans may reject in favor of the collection’s tailored stretch tube dresses with flared hems. Surprisingly sexy and revealing despite angular lines, S/S 13 broke new ground on directional key shapes. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Flat & rectangular / Long & lean / Oversized / Round

Color: Pearl / Nude / Black / Ice blue / Silvery grey / Chocolate / Forest green / Plum

Key Items: Leather tube dresses / Pencil skirts / Deconstructed tunics over full trousers / Wrap tops / Cropped sleeve coats / Jumpsuits / Flat capes

Materials: Spongy leathers / Stretch gabardine / Duchesse satin / Stiff sheer organza / Double faced silk

Details + Trim: Flared hems / Draped fronts / Padded shoulders / Asymmetry

Accessories + Footwear: Hidden platform pumps / Long leather gloves / Zippered wallet clutches / Faux spectacles / Peep toe pumps



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