Helmut Lang

New York: Designers Nicole and Michael Colovos of Helmut Lang took their edgy, downtown girl on a trip to the ocean and filtered her though a surfer-chic lens. Staying true to their urban style, there were plenty of easy low-slung trousers, boxy leather jackets and slightly off-kilter tank dresses — some getting a graphic punch from athletic-influenced details like sheer panels, color-blocking and contrast banding.  Electric reds, ocean blues, and coralline oranges punctuated the label’s usual black, white and grey, and fabrics seemed to reference the ocean’s surface with laminated silks, shiny leathers and sleek canvas. Prints were a standout, signalling a new territory for the designers. The intricate hand-drawn motifs by tattooist Thomas Hooper depicted underwater flora and fauna, adding a rich, almost Orientalist element to an otherwise spare, active-influenced offering. 
— Marissa Stuart

Silhouette: Asymmetric / A-line / Boxy

Color:  White / Lemon / Light grey / Bright red / Melon / Pewter / Coral / Ocean blue / Aqua

Key Items: Boxy leather jackets / Slouchy trousers / Color-blocked tank dresses / Printed suits

Materials: Laminated silk / Sheer / Glossy leather / Laminated silk / Net-like knits / Shiny Canvas

Print + Pattern:  Underwater floral

Details + Trim:  Sheer panels / Piecing / Halters / Contrast hems / Color-blocking / Exposed zippers

Accessories + Footwear:  Sporty high-top sandals




  1. Michon Stuart

    Excellent and professional review!

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