Dries Van Noten

DRESSING IN DISGUISE
Paris: The camouflages that inspired Dries Van Noten’s S/S 2013 collection were a strong presence on the runway – appearing in multiple colors and on every silhouette, but it didn’t disguise the designer’s beloved aesthetic. Experimental fabrics and constructions – two of Van Noten’s trademarks – were ever-present. Pieced-together voiles created color-blocked bibs on button-front shirts, while subtle quilting, which appeared on delicate nylon outerwear and paneled pant legs, conjured fencing garb when applied to vests and asymmetrical jackets. Some experiments may have gone too far;  the nude lace top that appeared mid-show might be hard for most men to pull off, but overall, the good – including perfectly proportioned suits, bomber jackets, and bermuda shorts – undoubtedly overshadowed the questionable. —Whitney Kessler

Silhouette: Tailored / Relaxed

Color: White / Navy / Tangerine / Marigold / Olive / Moss / Chestnut / Royal and indigo blues / Raspberry / Chartreuse

Key Items: Pleated trouser / Bomber jacket / Blazer / Fencing jacket / Macintosh / Woven pocket tee / Pieced voile button-up / Boxy Bermuda / Plaid set / Silk suit / Intarsia sweater

Materials: Cotton Voile / Raw silk / Sweater knits – both fine flat and loose mesh-like variations /  Ribbed jersey / Lace / Summer suiting / Nylon

Print + Pattern: Multiple camouflage variations / Large plaid / Abstract intarsia motifs

Details + Trim: Quilting / Piecing and paneling / Velcro  closures / Zippers – on ankles, pockets and sleeve cuffs / Ringer details

Accessories + Footwear: Suspenders / Giant satchels and carryalls / Printed pocket squares / Laceless oxfords / Sporty, Teva-style velcro sandals / Small tortoise-framed shades

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK

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