London: A light, elongated and sleeveless silhouette ruled at Daks this Spring, a delicate look somewhat at odds with the traditional checked outerwear of this English heritage brand. But recently appointed designer Sheila McKain-Waid made a strong case for the label’s potential beyond Mackintosh coats and rain capes, as her fluid silk separates achieving a minimal tranquility. Key pieces included long vests cinched at the waist with skinny drawstrings, sophisticated linen and silk jumpsuits, and elongated silk bomber jackets—quite the opposite of a basic trench. Of course, McKain-Waid couldn’t abandon the Daks check entirely, but by covering it with a mesh overlay she sidestepped the usual preppy references while also introducing her own playful brushstroke print.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Column / Slim & lean / Full

Color: Black / Tan / Plum / Silver / Cream / Apricot / Camel / White

Key Items: Flowing jumpsuits / Elongated silk bomber jackets / Checked pencil skirts / Sleeveless vests / Long monochrome colorblocked vests / Long mackintosh coats / Butterfly sleeves / Tap shorts / Camisoles / Wrap dresses

Materials: Silk / Delicate chiffon / Sateen / Netting / Slick leather / Linen / Cotton twill

Print + Pattern: Checks / Colorblocking / Abstract brushstrokes

Details + Trim:  Fitted bodice / Gathering / Sheer sleeves / Zippers / Mesh overlay / Beading / Delicate drawstrings / Cross-hatched surface techniques / Asymmetry

Accessories + Footwear: Graphic flat sandals / Slim leather belt / Architectural pumps / Skinny shoulder bags / Envelope clutches / Cylinder bags



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